April Indie Pattern Update!

So April has been an excellent month for new pattern releases! Which is very dangerous for me as after a crazy few months I have the majority of May off and have basically no plans apart from to sew! A lot of fabric has been pre-washed over the last couple of days and the cutting is about to commence...I can't wait. Anyway onto what you all came here for!

New Indie Pattern Companies!

• Lilith & Eve are launching in the next week with their first design LE101; a drapey blouse with a fun back which you can see a sneak peak of on their site. Both Sarah and Nicole are trained in fashion design and their patterns will each feature two entirely different styles to reflect their personalities.
• Maison Fleur have just launched with a collection of three PDF patterns including a Box Pleat Skirt, Fit and Flare Skirt and gorgeous Summer Blouse pattern which is so 1950s with the shoulder ties! Love the artwork on these!

New Patterns

• Deer and Doe released the first two patterns from their jersey collection. The panelling on the Brume Skirt is really interesting me and the cropped style of the Ondee Sweater may be the perfect filler for a gap in my wardrobe!
• See Kate Sew released the Soho Blouse which features an angled yoke and sleeves. The bohemian style is right up my alley and I just love the flattering cut of those sleeves from the side!
• The Luna Top is the latest release from Liola Designs. I've been after making some simple but interesting tops for spring/summer and the style-lines of this one have sucked me in!
• I'm also seriously tempted to purchase the new Sea Change Top from Lily Sage & Co. I love breezy styles like this paired with skinny jeans and can imagine it working beautifully in vividly printed kimono-style silks.
• Tilly and the Buttons released her new pattern, the Arielle Skirt! It's a chic fitted skirt with buttons running down the side which I think compliments the rest of her collection just perfectly. I love the option to use a lining and facing combo too.
• My ongoing love for maxi dresses meant major excitement when I saw the design of True Bias' most recent release; the Southport Dress. I adore the rayon challis sample Kelli has made.
• Republique du Chiffon released a whole new collection this month. I never envisioned myself wearing anything like it but I am loving that Dominique Jumpsuit!
• The eagerly anticipated Morris Blazer from Grainline Studio is here! It's designed for stretch wovens or stable knits and would be a great stylish alternative to a cardigan. I know I'm not alone in my high opinion of Jen's drafting skills so this classic, casual jacket is bound to be a winner.
• Kennis from Itch to Stitch released the Jaqueline Hoodie PDF pattern. It's nothing like the usual casual hoodie you might expect, featuring epaulettes, a double breasted front with buttons  and inseam welt pocket. She also put out a tester call for her Lindy Petal Skirt which looks lush.
• I find it hard to keep track of the Style Arc new releases but this month I did spot the new Cleo Knit Dress and Cleo Tabard patterns which can be bought together as an outfit pack or separately. I'm really intrigued to see this one made up and worn.
• Seamstress Erin has released her first pattern for women! It's called the Conifer Skirt and is a knit skirt in two lengths with the option to add tiered layers. It's Erin's first pattern to be available in print as well as PDF too! 
• Finally, not really a complete new pattern release but an idea which I absolutely love and hope more designers try, Muse Patterns released a Knit Sleeve Pack featuring patterns for four sleeve styles to work with any of their patterns so far. I think the tulip is my favourite!

Sew-alongs

• The sew-along for the new True Bias Southport Dress started on Monday. The posts can all be found over on the True Bias blog so there's plenty of time to catch up or refer back to them later.
• There hasn't been a sew-along as such for Tilly's new Arielle Skirt but I've spotted a number of really useful blog posts on the slightly trickier aspects of the construction such as fitting and attaching the lining. Be sure to check them out if you're planning to make it.
• A sew-along for Seamstress Erin's new Conifer Skirt will be coming soon over on her blog. This pattern also has a video sew-along available to purchase with the pattern if you want an even more thorough visual aid!

Upcoming!

• Christine Haynes revealed over on her blog that she has been working on a new pattern which will be released soon! It's called the Sylvie Dress and is designed for woven fabrics.
• I loved the design of Dixie DIY's self drafted cut out dress so I was delighted to spot her call for testers for it to be produced as a digital pattern. I've got my eyes peeled for the release of that one!
• I absolutely adore both of my pairs of Tania Culottes so I'm really excited to see that Megan Nielson's patterns are going back into print next month! With a slight rebranding (and more length options!) the Tania's will be one of the first available in paper form along with the popular Darling Ranges Dress and her new Brumbie Skirt.
• Lisa Comfort from Sew Over It's next book 'Sew Over It Vintage' will be released on June 18th. Her first was a real beauty with the styling of her shops carried through so I'm looking forward to seeing what this one contains.
• Katie from Papercut Patterns hinted on Instagram that her new collection is very nearly ready. Her designs are always very unique but wearable so I can't wait to see!

Other Exciting News

• Christine Haynes released her Derby and Chelsea dresses in PDF format (both are still available on paper too). That means her entire collection is now available digitally and to celebrate all the PDF patterns are 25% off until the end of the day on Sunday! Her Rosemary Collar pattern is now only available as a PDF.
• It's been a busy month for Christine as her latest book 'How to Speak Fluent Sewing' was released too. It's a guide to sewing and fabric terminology which sounds like just the thing I wish I had owned when I started!
• By Hand London made the very sad announcement that they will no longer continue to produce paper patterns or custom printed fabric. It must have been a very difficult decision for the ladies but the new direction for the company and focus on PDF patterns definitely counts as exciting! Their remaining stock of paper patterns have been selling like hot cakes (Anna, Elisalex, and Flora are already sold out) so if you want to get your hands on any get in there quick!
• The hugely popular Ginger Jeans pattern from Closet Case Files is now available in French. I've had my first pair cut out for ages and they are one of the first projects on my list to sew during my time off!
• Another pattern I've got two of on my list of things to sew is the Moss Mini Skirt from Grainline Studio. This is now available in paper form and both this version and the PDF have been updated so the pattern is now slightly longer and includes more notches.
• Thread Theory's last three releases, the Finlayson Sweater, Jutland Pants and Camas Blouse are soon to be released in paper format. The Camas will be their first ladies wear paper pattern!

Phew that feels like a lot. So much exciting stuff coming up too, I'd better get cracking with my list before it gets any longer! To finish up here's your monthly dose of indie sewing inspiration!

• That stunning cotton jacquard has found it's perfect pattern match in Sara's Coco Jacket. It's the perfect clean and simple design to showcase such a wonderful fabric.
• Lauren's entire handmade outfit had me drooling at the computer screen! A sunshine yellow Hollyburn Skirt and a Cabernet Cardigan made in nautical stripy double knit...yes please! She also made some totally awesome linen Carolyn Pyjamas which I wanted to include!
• It was Helen's version of the Sea Change Top that first brought the pattern to my attention. That bold green print looks so stunning on her! 
• I think the Holly Jumpsuit pattern may have been made for a flamingo print and this linen that Rachel used for her playsuit version may be the perfect flamingo print! Love it!
• I clearly hadn't looked enough at the line drawings for Named's new collection as I didn't spot the stunning nine panels and double vent feature of the Zaria Skirt until I saw Inna's. She used a Nano Iro double gauze which I mistook for rich velvet at first glance and now want to make!

Bamboo Jersey Nettie Bodysuits

I mentioned in my last post about my Silk Georgette Maxi Skirt that I was going to write a separate post about the Nettie Bodysuit I was wearing with it so I could go into more detail about the pattern. I actually made a couple of these in tandem using the same black bamboo jersey from Mood Fabrics for both and they've both become a wardrobe staple! I had originally intended to make just the one but I had 1.5 yards of the jersey and whilst laying the pattern pieces out to cut I realised I could just about squeeze in two so I just kept cutting!

I was a little slow on the uptake with this pattern as I've never thought of bodysuits as something I need in my wardrobe (all I can remember is wearing them as a kid so it seemed a little odd to return to that!) but as usual seeing lots of other bloggers absolutely rocking theirs persuaded me to give it a whirl. And now I'm not looking back! I'd spend the far too brief UK summer months wafting around in floaty skirts of preferably maxi but also midi and mini length too if I could and do so as much as I can. But I always end up a little stuck for tops to wear with them which will both suit the style of the bottom half, tuck in smoothly and stay put. Enter Nettie to solve all these problems and also help with the additional one of summer skirts combined with draughty tube station escalators!

The pattern comes with two neckline and three back options as well as three sleeve lengths. The one I am wearing with my maxi skirt is the scoop neck and mid back with short sleeves. I love this sleeve length for wearing the summer and the scoop back is gorgeous. It's just the right height to wear with a bra although I will admit to having a bit of trouble keeping bra straps from poking out of this one and preventing it from slipping off the shoulders. I think with the higher neck the scoop back would sit more securely in place (and vice versa) and also part of my problem is being caused by the bodysuit being a little long and so the shoulders are not pulled taught enough.

My second version has the high back, scoop neck and long sleeves. This one is so comfortable it's like wearing a hug! I love the snug fit of the sleeves and combined with the super soft and smooth bamboo jersey it's just dreamy! I briefly touched on this in my last post but if you are yet to give bamboo a try you must find a reason too. It's both lovely to wear and sew with, it recovers and washes well and presses and stitches beautifully. I'm yet to struggle to achieve a nice neat finish with bands made out of it.

I'm still not 100% confident sewing up knits so approached this project with mild apprehension. I feel like it's going to take many more knit projects to get me used to how different stretch fabrics behave but I did find Heather Lou's instructions and sew-along for this pattern to be really informative. I have, however, found my preferred construction technique which I adopted for both of these. I sewed all the seams on my regular machine with a narrow zig zag and then finished them on my overlocker. I find this makes for strong and accurate seam stitching whilst still giving that professional look to the insides which I love. I used the twin needle on my regular machine to hem the sleeves and also along the neckline and leg openings after attaching the bands as I like that finish and method for keeping the seam allowances in place. I don't want to tempt fate but I think I've really cracked how to get my twin needle to behave now!

I did skip the snap crotch feature on both of these. I'm not overly bothered by the hassle of going to the toilet in a bodysuit, I think it's as much of a faff to try and get the snaps done back up to be honest! Also there's just something about the snap crotch that seemed a step too far back towards my childhood wardrobe! Now I know how much I love wearing these though I think I will give it a try next time, more for the experience of sewing one than anything else.

The only other thing I'd change next time would be to shorten the suit by 1.5" at the lengthen/shorten here line on the front and back (unless I was using a knit with less two directional stretch). I'm really pleased with the fit in general, not too tight or loose but when I first completed them they had no where near enough vertical tension. Worth bearing in mind if you too are on the petite side. I took out 1" on the double at the crotch seam to combat this and now they fit much better but it's not an ideal alteration and they could probably do with a bit more. I'm 5ft3" and quite short in the body so probably should have thought about this beforehand but with limited knit experience I felt like a duck out of water with this style so chanced needing to write it off as a learning experience if sewing it up as drafted was a total disaster. I probably should have made one before cutting the other but I was too tempted by the speed of sewing one alongside the other! The sleeves are just fractionally long, I'll remove 1/2" next time.

I've got some of this same jersey in a delicious purple waiting to be cut and definitely need to get my hands on some more neutrals to sew up into Netties and wear with an assortment of colourful skirts. Next up is a short sleeved version with the high back and let's not forget there's a dress variation to try yet too!

Printed Silk Maxi Skirt and Bamboo Jersey Bodysuit

Spring finally seems to have arrived here in London, which is a good job as I jumped the gun a little hoping for the warmer weather with my most recent handmade ensemble for the Mood Sewing Network! This gorgeous abstract printed silk georgette jumped out at me from the computer screen back at the end of last year and I couldn't resist using that month's allowance to snap up a few yards despite my plans for it being a garment more suited to the warmer months! It's exactly the kind of organic and non-descript print that I like; to me it looks like a kind of blotchy pixelated floral. In reality the colours are a bit more vivid than it comes across in these garment photos and it's got a gorgeous smooth hand and drape. The picture below does the print a bit more justice.

If you haven't come across a silk georgette before I always think it's like a chiffon but heavier. Most have a slight crepe-like texture to them, as this one does, and while not as sheer as chiffon they are not opaque. Bearing this in mind (and knowing I would end up making a summer dress or skirt from it which would be worn in bright sunlight) I ordered a couple of yards of this Theory dark green stretch silk georgette to line/underline it. I deliberated over this choice for quite some time as I wondered it choosing a lighter or brighter colour for the lining would bring out the colours more but when it arrived I was delighted with the colour match and weight of it when combined with other piece. This georgette is slightly different to the first as one side of it has a satin like sheen which makes it lovely to wear against the skin.

I had initially thought I would make a fairly simple dress with a flared skirt but a couple of days of sunshine reminded me of my ongoing love for maxi skirts in the summer months and also got me thinking about a vintage maxi skirt pattern which I've had in my stash for a while; Style 4218 from 1973. I knew these two fabrics were going to be a fairly tricky combo to sew with so the simple four panelled design and waistband looked like a perfect choice. Because each panel is so full at the hem I only just managed to squeeze my pieces out of the 2.5 yards I had ordered and therefore thinking about pattern placement wasn't really an option! I had thought this wouldn't be a problem as the pattern is so abstract but in fact the majority of the colourful blotches run closer to one selvedge than the other so as I could fit two panels across the width of the fabric one panel ended up darker and less colourful than the other. As the print is fairly uneven throughout I don't actually mind how it looks assembled in the end but I wish I'd had a bit more fabric so I could have played around with the spread of the colour. So there's a lesson for you all and one I won't forget again...when working with a print of any kind it's always worth ordering a little bit extra!

As georgette is semi-sheer I debated using the dark green as an underlining so all the seam allowances were concealed beneath both layers rather than between the two. But in the end I decided the top layer was opaque enough to prevent any of these insides showing through and used it as a lining. I'm really pleased that I kept it separate to the top layer as having it hanging free gives some really gorgeous extra fullness and movement to the skirt...although it did mean I had two huge hems to contend with!

When sewing I used a size 70 sharps needle in my machine to prevent any snagging and actually my machine handled both of these delicate and rather slippery fabrics pretty well. To preserve the delicate silks I used french seams throughout with the exception of the side seam where the zip is inserted, which I overlocked the edges of before assembling. Apart from pattern placement the one major challenge I encountered with this project was levelling off the hem. I popped it on my tailors dummy overnight and by morning the hem had a dramatic handkerchief effect! It actually stayed put for a good week longer as I just couldn't face trying to get it even. In the end it was time consuming but not too painful. I tackled the top layer first and finished it, before cutting the lining ever so slightly shorter. I used my rolled hem foot which I have found to be by the far the speediest way of hemming delicate fabrics such as these and love the fluted effect it gives to the two layers together. I actually hemmed both layers before sewing up the final seam where the zip is. This is a technique I often use when doing a rolled hem as starting and finishing at a raw edge is so much easier than along a continuous curve. Then I sew up the seam and tack down the seam allowances at the hem by hand.

One of the interesting features of this pattern is the deep waistband which is 3" wide when assembled. I did use the dark green georgette as an underlining on the waistband pieces to provide an extra layer of thickness and structure and hand basted these together along with a layer of silk organza as interfacing. I think this width of waistband could actually do with a bit more structure, and I'd probably add this to both the main band and facing next time. Construction wise I assembled the waistband and attached the facing, under stitching the top edge, before attaching the top layer of the skirt to the bottom of the waistband and the lining to the bottom of the facing. Once the zip was inserted I stitched in the ditch by hand to catch the bottom of the waistband and facing together and help keep things sitting correctly.

The top is actually the Nettie Bodysuit from Closet Case Files which I think the close fit of makes for a great pairing with the high waist of this skirt. I've been wanting to sew with some more bamboo jersey ever since I had such success with it on my version of the Bronte Top so I ordered a small amount of a couple of colours from the selection on the Mood Fabrics website (this is the black solid which is now unfortunately sold out). This particular bamboo definitely lived up to the high expectations I had after my first experience. It's dreamy to sew with. I chose to sew all my seams with a narrow zig zag stitch for accuracy and strength and then finished them off on my overlocker as I really like this professional look inside. Both my regular machine and overlocker loved this jersey, it pressed beautifully, didn't shift as I cut it and for once I hd no trouble with my twin needle which I used to finish the sleeves and topstitch around the neckline and leg holes. I want to make all of my knit projects out of bamboo now; it's so soft and snuggly to wear to boot! I actually managed to squeeze two out of the 1.5 yards of the black I ordered (the second having long sleeves and a different neckline) so I am planning to do a more detailed post about my experiences with the pattern itself in the next week or so.

I'll probably be wearing my Nettie with more seasonably appropriate skirts and jeans for at least the foreseeable future but I'm dreaming about wearing this skirt in the summer sunshine!