Wednesday 18 September 2013
Wellington Pattern Pyramid Winner!
It's taken me slightly longer to post this than I had intended and I have no real excuse other than being completely absorbed in sewing my Robson Coat! But the moment has arrived and chosen by random number generator the winner is....
The Amazing Taracat!
Congratulations! I am seeing that as a reward for always making me laugh with your posts! Please shoot me a quick email with your address and I'll get the pattern pyramid in the post to you as soon as.
Saturday 14 September 2013
Anna Dress (Version 2!)
Well I think it's about time we talked about my second By Hand London Anna Dress don't you? One day I'll catch up with all the items I've still got to blog about! These pictures were taken a couple of weeks ago, as you may notice rom the glorious sunshine! I was hoping for a sunny September so I could get some more wear out of this lovely fresh print but it already feels like it's been gloomy and wet for about a month so I think Autumn has well and truly arrived.
This time I made the midi length with about 6 inches removed, just taken off the hem. This is quite a lot to take off but By Hand London patterns do tend to be drafted for the taller ladies, and at 5ft 3" I'm definitely not that, so I normally take off quite a wedge. Also I personally prefer my skirts just above the knee so I took off a bit more than usual. This alteration meant I managed to squeeze this out of just 1.5m which is worth bearing in mind if you're short like me as the pattern asks for 2.6m! As much as I love the glamour of the maxi Anna I absolutely love this length as it is practical for everyday wear but the interesting construction makes you feel like you've got something a bit special on too.
The fabric is a digitally printed polyester crepe from Sew Over It in Clapham, who a lovely variety of prints in different weights. I've actually been holding onto it for a few months as I picked it up on a whim at the start of summer when I was thinking about making playsuits, it was one of those prints that instantly caught my eye and I couldn't resist! It's very lightweight and drapey but not particularly sheer, even in direct sunlight. I was really pleased to discover that even though it's polyester I stayed quite cool in it, even running around on hot days. I think the fit of the dress and those kimono sleeves help.
After having some issues with the neckline gaping on my first Anna I decided to cut out some of that excess this time rather than adding in darts. I'd unfortunately already cut this version before I noticed the issue with my first so I couldn't do a proper alteration to the pattern. I'd seen a couple of other bloggers had taken some out of the centre back to reduce the neckline width so I decided I could still do this. I measured 1" in from the centre back at the neckline on each piece and drew a line down to nothing at about 5" down. It's probably not the best way to go about it as it messes with the grain along the centre back but I'm pretty happy with the result. If you want to do a proper alteration Sonja from Ginger Makes wrote a great post on how simple it is. Along with simply clipping and under-stitching the neckline this seems to have solved not only the gaping issue but the problem I had getting the slash neck to lie flat.
Neckline construction |
Matching of skirt seams and bodice pleats |
Concealed hook and eye and pinked facings |
On my first Anna I used bias binding to finish my facing's but felt it was a little bulky with the drape of the fabric and style of the pattern. This fabric has a similar drape but hardly frays at all so I simply pinked the edges of the facing this time, along with the centre back zip seam.
Again I used french seams throughout and I just love how neat it looks inside, plus it's nice knowing that this will hold up in the wash!
So my second Anna is probably not as much of a hit as my first but still gets a big thumbs up from me! My third version is the most glamourous of the lot but I need the rain to stop so I can get some decent pictures for you this weekend! I love how versatile this pattern is and think it can be a completely different dress when using fabrics of different weights and drapes. I've got a luscious bit of emerald green wool crepe I got at a remnant sale which I might just be able to squeeze the midi version out of for winter...
Tuesday 10 September 2013
A not-so-successful Salme Playsuit
I was really excited about this make when I got started on it just as the weather turned lovely and hot back in July, but I'm less than enamoured with it now it's done and it hasn't had a single wear yet! I don't think this has anything to do with the pattern or the fabric, but rather the combination of pattern and fabric which is entirely my fault! I'm quite disappointed as I absolutely love this fabric and wish I had used it for a more successful project.
I got the fabric in an accidental trip to Simply Fabrics in Brixton, which can come up trumps with some bargain fabric treasures! It's a lovely, drapey viscose which feels sooo nice to wear. I love that the print looks a bit like a giant gingham. It looks very familiar to me and I'm not sure why, perhaps a little Kate Spade?
I used the Salme Patterns playsuit pattern and I love the simple, relaxed style of the design but I think, although I imagine it's meant to be worn with some ease for that slouchy look, it's come up a little large which hasn't helped my lack of excitement for the finished product. I definitely should have made a muslin (especially as both of my previous Salme Pattern makes have come up a little on the large side) but as any of you Brits will understand I was desperate to get this done as quickly as possible, once the sun is out as you never know how long the good weather is going to stick around!
The one thing I'm loving about this make (with the exception of the kimono sleeves which are becoming a bit of an obsession after the success of my Anna's) are the genius construction and finishing methods detailed in the pattern instructions. The best of these are the pockets which, with 4 pattern pieces each, seemed overly complicated and caused a helluva lot of head scratching when I first read the instructions through. But I just went with it and man did I love the look of them and feel like an accomplished seamstress when I was done. Especially as I used french seams everywhere possible!
I also love the clean finish of the neckline with a facing and and concealed press stud fastenings. I chose to finish the edge of the facing with bias binding but I had to stitch the facing down as it kept flipping out around the neckline and wouldn't lay flat despite notching and under-stitching the seam. I just decided to topstitch round the edge of it with my machine and am actually pretty chuffed with how neatly I managed to do it and the finished effect.
The only aspect of the construction I'm not delighted with is the elasticated waist which I personally don't particularly like wearing, I feel like it sucks in a not very flattering way and just feels uncomfortable.
I made more of an attempt than I ever have before with pattern matching as I thought this pattern had the potential to look atrocious if I didn't make any attempt! I by no means put huge amounts of effort into this and have since discovered Tasia's super useful tutorials on the subject which will come in handy next time, but I'm pretty pleased with the overall effect. I mainly wanted to ensure the stripes of squares lined up at obvious points and that the crotch didn't look awful and I think I managed it. Ish.
That still doesn't make up for the fact that I feel a little like a clown when I'm wearing it though. And when was loading the pics onto my computer this surprise photo gave away the photographers true feelings on the make...
Haha! To be fair looking at it from behind I feel like that too!
I'd really love some tips from you guys on how to make this more wearable. Looking at the pictures I think I should definitely shorten the shorts a fair bit to help the overall proportions of it and expanse of the print. My other half thinks I should slim the shorts down too which I think could work but is a fairly major alteration as those pockets are so beautifully complicated! Or maybe I should even cut off the shorts entirely (I'm really not sure on the look of them in this print!) and either turn it into a blouse or attempt to get some more of the same fabric and add on a skirt? I do actually have a polyester crepe version of this fabric in the black squares on cream colour way so perhaps a skirt in the alternate colour way would be nice? Or too much? There's so many options I'm weighing up, none of them which I'm 100% sure will work out! Autumn seems to have hit us over the weekend anyway so I doubt we'll be seeing any weather hot enough to be wearing this for at least 9 months!
Thursday 5 September 2013
Wellington Pattern Pyramid Giveaway!
A little while ago I was the lucky winner of a giveaway for the Wellington Pattern Pyramid hosted by Catja from Gjeometry! If you haven't heard of a 'pattern pyramid' giveaway before it is an idea dreamed up by Karen of Did You Make That. She very generously gave away quite a large number of patterns on her blog, a selection of patterns went to each winner who could then choose one of those patterns to keep and host their own giveaway for rest, adding in one from their own collection. The sewing network of Wellington, New Zealand liked the idea so much they decided to start their own when they had a number of patterns going spare after a big meet up and swap. It's a fantastic idea to save patterns going to waste. I was so excited to win, partly because I just love the idea of this bundle of patterns winging it's way around the world. I know it's been to New Zealand and Canada so far, where too next?!
As well as having the most inventive way of deciding a winner of all time, Catja sent me some lovely little gifts along with the pattern pyramid including some little labels, tape measures and mini mechanical pencils which I was far too excited about! Thank you so much Catja!
So I bet you want a closer look at those patterns hey?! There are some great patterns to choose from in this pyramid, but you will have to look past some seriously questionable cover art!
First up these two Butterick wrap skirt patterns which the lovely Catja added in herself. They are so like Tilly's Miette skirt don't you think?! If you've got your eye on these it's worth noting that the small size pattern (24-25" on the right) only has instructions in French and the medium size pattern (26.5-28" on the left) has no instructions at all. If you've got a bit of sewing experience under your belt I'm sure you could work out the construction for yourself though.
These next three patterns all have a good size range (10-18, 8-18 and 12-20) and between them provide (along with a good laugh at that 1980s delight in the middle) a whole lot of variety. Simplicity 2771 is for a knit dress with maxi, midi, tunic and neckline variations. Simplicity includes patters for a jacket, trousers, skirt, vest top and bag no less! I was seriously tempted by this one.
If you fancy doing some selfless sewing there's a Butterick pattern for some amazing 1970s men's outerwear (in a chest size 38") or if you feel like branching out into accessories there's a pattern for that too!
There are McCall's patterns for 1 hour pants (someone needs to put that claim to the test!) and for a princess seamed button up top with 7 variations! Both of these are sized 10-14.
These three provide quite a lot of options for separates, the simple shift dress included in Vogue 2659 (view B) looks particularly lovely. From left to right these patterns are sizes 14-18, 12-16 and 12-16.
Lastly there are two Vogue patterns in sizes 14-20/22. I absolutely love both of these two and was gutted that they weren't in my size. I want to see someone make that coat please!
The pattern I'm choosing to keep is the lovely Simplicity 3877 dress pattern below. I really like the look of view B (the left hand picture) quite a simple and classic dress shape but with some interesting details like the little collar which reminds me of the Colette Hawthorn.
And the pattern I'm adding in is Simplicity 2588 ins sizes 12-20. It's from the ever popular Project Runway range and includes a serious amount of options including variations on necklines sleeves and skirt shapes, you could get a whole lot of mileage out of this pattern!
Monday 2 September 2013
Anna Dress (Version 1!)
I've been doing a whole load of sewing recently so I've got plenty of completed projects to show you which I haven't got round to blogging about yet; including THREE versions of By Hand London's Anna! Here's the first and possibly my favourite:
This was intended as a wearable muslin so I used an extremely cheap viscose print I bought a couple of months ago from a very entertaining market stall outside Rolls n' Rems in Lewisham. During cutting I realised I absolutely loved it though so did my very best to make it work out first time and I'm really really pleased with it.
I'm sure you've all seen many many versions of this pattern popping up around the internet, and I know I'm not the first blogger to have fallen in love with this pattern and made multiple versions! If you want proof of this pattern's versatility just check out Lizzy and Rosin who have made 7 between them! It's not surprising that the pattern has become such a rapid hit, it's a simple yet unique design that I can see looking great on all body types. The full panelled skirt makes it feel like you're wearing something really special but my favourite bit is for sure the little pleats under the bust which provide shape to the bodice. I love a fitted waist and this combined with the kimono sleeves is super flattering. If I still haven't sold you on it there's a sew-a-long hosted by the By Hand London girls themselves starting on Monday 16th September!
Under bust pleats in the bodice |
I went with the high slash neckline on this version as I love how this looks with the kimono sleeves. The neckline was the only part of the dress I had trouble with the fit of as it came up really wide and so gaped front and back; I know a few other bloggers have mentioned this too. I think I have fairly small shoulders which didn't help this situation. I'd already attached the facing, done all the clipping and under-stitching to secure this and even inserted the zip when I realised it was big here so on this version I just added in a couple of darts at the back of the neckline. I'm not completely overjoyed with the result as it doesn't line up quite right and am tempted to unpick and redo it, but fit wise it's made a huge difference.
Insides all finished with french seams |
I love this combination of fabric and pattern. The drapey viscose worked out great for the skirt and has enough body to hold the structure of the bodice nicely.
With Emmie, Nicole and Sally on my Birthday! |
Speaking of my birthday I was lucky enough to receive a handful of new patterns, some money for fabric shopping, the Great British Sewing Bee book and a beautiful pair of Gingher shears! I think my nearest and dearest might have picked up on this sewing addiction of mine don't you?! Thank you all (because I know you're reading!) for the lovely thoughtful gifts, for encouraging this fascination of mine and for putting such a big smile on my face all year round!
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