A Few Thoughts on Personal Style

So I've got A LOT of patterns I want to make now and when considering which one to make first I've been thinking about which patterns i might get the most wear out of and therefore what I could wear with them to make an outfit. This in turn has led me to thinking about my personal 'look' and how these items would fit into that and what I would like that look to be.

Katy Perry - CLEARLY has an abundance of individual style

I've never felt cause to feel proud of my personal style, I've never really thought it was particularly 'put together' or interesting or even very 'me'. I've always somehow compiled a wardrobe of things that I've seen in the shops and liked so bought. There's nothing wrong with this of course, the outfits we feel best in are complied of things we like. However, all of these items don't really go together to achieve a particular style. I know you may think that maybe this mismatched look is a style in itself, but it doesn't really say anything, it's not kookily mismatched, it's just clothes. I don't ever feel like I've created a good look or combined items to create a great outfit when I get dressed in the morning. I'm not saying I want to cause people to stare when I walk down the street or dress like I'm living in a music video (my life is not that of Katy Perry or Gwen Stefani although I have used them as examples of individual style this is not how I aim to dress!). I just want to feel confident. For a girl who reads Vogue every month I don't think much of that fashion food is shows. I think I used to be a lot better at it than I am now and this may have something to do with the fact that I now get up for work much earlier and leave myself minimal time to dress and more time to sleep!

Gwen Stefani - An Icon in the Personal Style Stakes

There are lots of other sewists whose blogs I read who have a great sense of style and a real consistent look going on such as Casey, Elsie and Oona and I wonder how they go about pulling together their outfits day to day in limited time? I have heard or read about various people's method of putting together looks, from those who plan out all their outfits for the week on a Sunday night, through those who lay it out the night before, to those with the enviable skill of just throwing various items and accessories on in the morning to create something wonderfully interesting and 'them'.

Casey from 'Casey's Elegant Musings'

I want to try and compile a wardrobe of fewer well made and nicely cut pieces around one stronger look than the mishmash I have going on at the moment caused by having fingers in too many pies! I love vintage clothing but don't think I could pull off dressing completely as if I've stepped back in time. I think I'd like and would feel most confident in a look combining vintage details with a contemporary twist. But where to start...

The late 1960s - an era suited to those with a more Twiggy-esque physique

I've always liked the late 60s and have bought a few bits and pieces, mainly dresses from that era but I don't have much else to go with it so never feel very 60s when I'm wearing it. I've also gradually become aware that this era of clothing doesn't really suit me. Those little mini dresses and beautiful swing coats look best on people much straighter up and down than me! Also the mini skirt is not particularly practical for climbing up ladders at work! So I'm looking a little earlier for fashion inspiration this year. Spurred on by Mad Men I'm looking at the full skirts and pencil skirts of the late 50s/early 60s, which will suit my curvier figure more. I'm not sure how practical these outfits will again be, but hey you don't know 'til you try! I'm also very easily led by current fashion trends which I feel may sway towards the 1920s during the year so I may dabble in a bit of this too but I want to be more aware of what aspects of these trends will suit my shape and the rest of my style and wardrobe.

The early 1960s style works with curves

My plan is to try and construct a wardrobe of outfits, or pieces that go with many other pieces, perhaps around a few key pieces I make over the next few months. I also want to make more use of accessories to complete outfits. I always get this 'bored of my look' feeling in winter especially as I'm wearing coats all the time and it feels like I'm emerging from the house in the same boring old thing everyday. Basically I want to put myself together, through mainly made but some bought pieces too, a wardrobe that makes me excited about getting ready in the morning and proud of walking down the street.

How do you feel about your personal style? Where did it emerge from and how do you put it together?

A Couple More Books on Clothing

I thought I'd briefly share with you a couple of other sewing/costume related gifts I received over Christmas. Firstly...

'Costume from 1500 to the Present Day'

I asked for this one and I must admit was very surprised at the size of it on opening as I have a couple of other Cally Blackman books and they are big thick reference books. However I have to say I think the size of it is a huge plus point. Learning about the history of costume can be a hugely daunting task particularly when starting out as there is simply so much ground to cover and so much depth to go into. I had ploughed through this one by New Year and it has really all sunk in and stuck because it simply spells out what you need to know, you don't have to dig out the important facts and it leaves you feeling fairly confident about all periods. Obviously don't expect to become an expert on any one thing but there are some great little nuggets of information in there.

First part of the 18th Century chapter

The prose combines in an effective way descriptions of garments and shapes of the period along with descriptions of what life was like at the time as well as political and social changes that were happening and how this all affected the way people dressed. One of the aspects of costume I find most fascinating is the use of clothing to convey meaning, wealth and social status and there are some really interesting facts on this line amongst the text. The pictures are well chosen to illustrate the details which are highlighted, including photographs of restored or imitation garments of the period as well as illustrations and reference from the actual period mainly in painting form. The combination of all three of these resources gives a great overall insight.

'Vintage Fashion Sourcebook - Key Looks and Labels and Where to Find Them'

This second book is another concise record of the features of historical dress but this time focusing on more recent fashions. It includes lots of colour pictures and has a layout more similar to a magazine with short blocks of text dotted about rather than continuous prose so it is easy to digest and remember. This also makes it great as a quick reference book. The colourful layout and choice of photos (again a combination of exhibit photos, illustrations and images from the time) has got me really excited about vintage fashion again and I can't wait to go for a rummage in some vintage stores and get making some of my Nan's patterns. (There has been a slight hold up on both of these things recently due to the imminent house move but there is a trip to Walthamstow Market happening imminently).

'Key Looks of the Decade'

The book is divided into sections by decade, from the 1920s to 1980s. (A bit of a tangent but I wonder when people will start including the 90s or even 00s in the bracket of vintage fashion?) Each section begins with a brief summary of key looks and also what was happening in the world that influenced changes in fashion. Then comes a brilliant double page titled 'Key Looks of the Decade'. A collage of images and facts drawing together important things to consider about the looks of the era. For example patterns, shapes, fabrics and design influences. The chapter then ends with a more detailed article focusing on one aspect of fashion at that time, for example silhouettes, decoration, daywear or evening wear. These sections are very interesting reading, getting into a good level of depth. The one thing I would say about the book, from a costume point of view, is that it's very fashion orientated so not hugely useful when costuming real characters as only a very small percentage of people would wander around in the latest fashions. But then it is called the 'Vintage Fashion Sourcebook' so that's kind of pointed out by the title and can't be cited as a negative!


There's a brief shopping guide at the end of the book which I must say I didn't find particularly useful but then the book is distributed world wide so it must be quite hard to guide people through the vintage stores of many different countries. There is a very useful, if brief, breakdown of the biggest collections and stores in different countries and also a glossary of designers which would be very useful to a keen vintage collector.


All in all I'd say this book is great when used as a reference for the key features and popular designers of a decade or for inspiration when putting together a look but not particularly useful as a guide of where to find them as advertised on the front.

The Pattern Book To End All Pattern Books

This was another Christmas pressie from my Mum (I know. She's amazing!) Believe it or not she discovered this gem in Urban Outfitters. 'Famous Frocks' by Sara Alm and Hannah McDevitt contains full size patterns of 10 iconic dresses of the 20th century and gives instructions on how to make them and fabric choice advice. Those included are:

Bette Davis - A gorgeous 1940s short gown with flounce

Rita Hayworth - A slinky gathered 1940s dress

Marilyn Monroe - Obviously the 'The Seven Year Itch' white halterneck

Jackie O - A classic minimalist fitted a-line number

Audrey Hepburn - The little black 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' dress of course

Twiggy - A fun 1960s mini

Diana Ross - A very funky disco dress with HUGE sleeves

Farrah Fawcett - The must have wrap dress of the 1970s

Stevie Nicks - A loose fringed number with a handkerchief hemline

Madonna - One of her earlier 1980s looks, corset top with puff skirt

Each dress has it's own section including a vintage photo of the icon in the dress in question along with description of what makes it so iconic, contemporary illustrations of each variation of the dress (more on that in a moment), suggested fabrics and yardage, a diagram of the layout of pattern pieces and finally detailed instructions on how to construct the garment including illustrations. The illustrations (by Kerrie Hess) are exactly what I like to see in a sewing book, black and white and linear with only the required information included and shading to show the right and wrong sides of the fabric at each point.

Clear patterns in the front compartment of the book

Now you may be thinking most of these dresses may be iconic but aren't very me or I might make them but would only have use for them at a special occasion but each dress has the original pattern and a pattern for a more contemporary variation included. Nearly every one of these variations I have looked at and thought ooo I'd love to wear/make that and when thinking about fabric choices and looking at the recommendations in the book I have found them to be very versatile, I think two different fabrics could make something completely different out of each pattern.

The 'Rita Hayworth' may well be my favourite

The book guides you through the construction process for each design in a way very similar to Colette Patterns which from what I've seen on other blogs everyone LOVES. The steps are very easy to follow, broken down into simple bite sized chunks, looking through it makes me feel like i could whip up any of them in no time! (Which I'm sure is not the case!) Each dress gives an indication of the sewing level needed for that particular project along with suggestions of combinations of sleeve, length, fit and detail to make even more variations and simplify or even perhaps take the construction one step further.

Although 'Jackie O' may be a close contender. I can see a lot of these in my w future wardrobe.

There's an excellent General Instructions section at the front of the book including things like determining your size, tracing your pattern and preparing your fabric which is brilliant for a novice sewer. There are also some great resources at the end of the book advising on tools and guiding you through techniques. 'Famous Frocks' could definitely be used as a fun way to learn to sew all on it's own.

I was also very excited to find, along with lists of suggested fabric shops and reference books which you may expect to find, a list of suggested blogs! I hope this is a sign of things to come with all books! I was even more excited to find a few I already follow including Gertie, Sew Mama Sew, Colette Patterns and Burda Style.

I've already had a think about what fabrics, colours and prints I'd like to make them all up in, now I just need to get fabric shopping and decide which one to get started on first! Eeek! Sara and Hannah - Thank you for putting together the book of my dreams!

The Fashion Designer's Textile Directory - Gail Baugh

So my current project is learning about fabrics; something that has been made dramatically easier by Fabric for Fashion: The Swatch Book. However this book only gives non patterned and non dyed examples of the different weaves and knits of the different fibres. While this is amazing and I now have a much better understanding of the properties of each fibre and weave I still struggle when trying to identify fabrics in a store or at work as I find myself misled by the prints, patterns and sometimes the way the fabric has been used in the garment in question.

...enter my Mum with The Fashion Designer's Textile Directory which she was very proud of herself for finding in Barnes and Noble in New York. (This was a Christmas present along with some vouchers for Sew Over It which I hadn't even told her about! Legend) This tome goes through each and every type of fabric ordering them in chapters based on their properties (Structure, Fluidity, Ornamentation, Expansion and Compression) rather than the weave or fibre. This makes it easier to work from when trying to identify something you have no clue about but can see the properties of, with Fabric for Fashion you have to take a bit of a stab in the dark at the right section to look in or leaf through all the swatches to find the closest match. However there are no swatches only pictures in the Textile Directory so it can prove difficult matching a written description and photo to the physical cloth in hand. The brilliant thing about my job is that as I see and use costumes from all different periods every day I am exposed to a wide range of fabrics which you may not find in contemporary everyday clothing, such as heavy brocades and power mesh. However, identifying all these different fabrics can prove rather a challenge but I've been making real progress since the new year using a combination of these two books. The Textile Directory basically provides me with everything I am missing from Fabric for Fashion and vice versa, making them the perfect companions for each other I think.

Each fabric has a full colour page or double page including a summary of important qualities to consider and other key things to look out for when working with this particular fabric. Each page begins with a close up shot of an example of the fabric in question and then also three more differing photographic examples. In this way the book gives you a more complete overview of the variety within the already huge variety of fabric weaves and knits, which I think is the most difficult thing to get to grips with. A photo is also included of the fabric in use on the catwalk which is surprisingly useful when trying to identify fabric in an existing garment. The final aspect of each page is a clear and concise 'Facts and Figures' box, breaking down in bullet point form the distinctive features and strengths and weaknesses of that particular choice; a hugely useful resource when selecting fabric for a project. 

Decorative techniques such as trims, piping, contrast bias bindings and ribbons are also discussed at length making the book not only a useful learning resource but a source of creative inspiration. Looking at the suggested uses and bullet pointed distinctive features of each material has certainly made me want to branch out from simple and safe printed cotton fabric choices and I think this book will definitely spur me on to experiment with fabric and ornamentation.

The most amazing thing about the book (excluding the fold out flap listing all the icons explaining weaves and finishes so you can keep out to refer to as you look through, genius idea) are the charts at the back of the book. They are a quick and easy reference showing just what you need to know about each fabric and just what you need to identify them. This includes advantages and disadvantages of each fabric, what it is commonly used for and the usual fibres it is constructed from. All through the book I think it's really apparent that the author (Gail Baugh) has a brilliant grasp of what fashion designers/costume designers/buyers and students really need and want to know about fabrics and so doesn't bog you down with heaps of unnecessary info on how each fibre is processed (although there is an excellent chapter at the start of the book on the future of fabric production which is well worth a read as a base for your fabric knowledge).

All in all this is a fantastic book for anyone who works with fabrics, anyone who knows about fabrics and wants to know a bit more and anyone who doesn't!

Christmas Crackers and a Happy New Year!

I hope everyone had a fantastic Christmas period and all your handmade gifts were fully appreciated! 

As promised here are some snaps of my completed Christmas table set up for mine and my boyfriend's mini Christmas day (I'd never be allowed to get involved with my Mum's table plans back home!)

The fabric for the runner was a bargain from Ikea when I wasn't even looking for fabric and they also did matching paper napkins and wrapping paper which I also made full use of! I love using simple candles as a centre piece (I'm having a bit of a candle moment actually) but when it came to putting the table together I wished I had a bit of festive foliage, just some fir or holly, to lay around the bases of the candles to make it that little bit more interesting and Christmassy. I think I'm quite minimalist usually decoration-wise but I've definitely come round to thinking that Christmas is the one time you can go all out and throw decorations up everywhere (mainly after watching 'Jamie's Christmas With Bells On' I must admit).

The runner was very easy to make, simply cut a long strip and hem the edges although you could add some trim or fringing at each end or perhaps incorporate points at each end with a hanging tassel. I also made my own crackers which were also surprisingly straight forward and inexpensive.

First I filled a toilet roll tube with some sweeties, a joke, a little gift and a party hat (which I made from the same paper simply by folding up concertina style a long strip, cutting diagonally through the middle to create two strips with points and glueing together the ends).

Then I wrapped a piece of the Ikea wrapping paper around the tube ensuring the paper was long enough to stick out a few inches each end. Stick together with a small amount of Pritt Stick, just enough to hold it together. Don't use Sellotape as this will make your crackers impossible to pull, you need the paper to tear! I would recommend backing your paper with another piece or with some thin card so when you pull the crackers they hold some kind of shape and don't simply flop. 

I then slid a cracker snap (I bought mine from Hobby Craft) inside each tube, gathered the paper together at each end and tied with a small piece of thread. The thread can then be covered with whatever decoration you choose, I used these pre-tied red velveteen bows for a touch of the traditional.

And there we have it, inexpensive Christmas crackers to match your table colour scheme!